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Explore the Power of Lithium Innovation
Stay updated with the latest trends, technologies, and application insights in the world of lithium battery solutions
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Explore the Power of Lithium Innovation
Stay updated with the latest trends, technologies, and application insights in the world of lithium battery solutions
If you’ve ever messed with e-bikes or scooters, you’ve probably seen a 36V 18650 battery pack. Basically, it’s a bunch of cylindrical lithium cells (those AA-looking things but a bit thicker) wired together to hit around 36 volts.
Sounds simple, right? Ten cells in series (10S) give you the nominal 36V. Fully charged, you’re around 42V. Too low, and you might damage the cells — usually don’t go below 30V.
Here’s a pro tip from experience: one time I ran a 10S2P pack on a mid-drive motor, and it just couldn’t handle hills. Lesson: don’t skimp on the parallel count if you actually want decent range.
Quick math: if each 18650 cell is 3000mAh and you do 10S3P, you get roughly 9Ah. Not exact, but close enough for planning.
BMS (Battery Management System)
No exceptions here. Without one, your cells get unbalanced fast, and the weakest one drags the rest down. Get one with overcharge, over-discharge, and short-circuit protection. Seriously, don’t skip this.
Heat
High current makes heat. A tightly packed 10S4P with no airflow can age fast. Give your pack a bit of breathing room. I learned this the hard way.
Space & Shape
Not every frame has room for a brick. Sometimes flat 10S2P layouts work better for slim scooters or compact projects.
Charging habits
You don’t always have to charge to 42V. Charging to 80–90% can extend lifespan a lot. I do this now, and my packs last longer than before.
Pros:
Cons:
The 18650 battery pack 36V is pretty much a sweet spot for DIYers and e-mobility enthusiasts. Strong enough for most mid-range motors, but not a monster to handle. Build it smart: don’t cheap out on BMS, pick your cell count wisely, and plan the pack shape before welding — redoing it later is a pain.
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